I am all about seasonal cooking. I’m a firm believer in finding ways to enjoy and appreciate all the seasons, and even a grey, dark, cold February evening can be a pleasure if you have candles burning and something aromatic and hearty in the oven. But this winter, folks, has started to grate. A few days ago I felt my first serious pang of DAMN, when will it be spring? And in that mood, I just couldn’t take any more rib-sticking winter food, more meat and cabbage and squash and soup. So instead I threw together a completely un-seasonal summery Mediterranean pasta dish of wholewheat spaghetti, a big diced fresh tomato, a can of tuna, and the juice of one lemon, stirred together in the pan once the spaghetti is cooked and drained with plenty of olive oil, salt and freshly ground pepper. It wasn’t the greatest thing I’ve ever eaten, and would have been better if I’d had some capers or olives on hand to tart things up. But it was worth it to remember that the days of fish, lemons and tomatoes are going to come back. Maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow, but soon. If in doubt, squeeze a lemon. They’re good for getting you through a winter day.